Zürich, Lucerne & Zermatt: A Complete Guide to Swiss Bliss

If you’ve ever wondered whether the places that are written about in fairy tales are real - the answer is yes. I climbed, drove and strolled up and down a few of them in Switzerland.
I left imagining how many more breathtaking places I didn’t have time to see. All I know is Switzerland is a place I have to keep coming back to.

The majestic roads between Zürich and Zermatt wind through beautiful tiny villages.

The majestic roads between Zürich and Zermatt wind through beautiful tiny villages.

Life is a fairy tale, but to see it you must open your eyes.

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Zürich

My time in Zürich was very limited, but there are a few things I definitely want to share with you that I think you’ll find worthwhile.

where to stay: a STUNNING bed & breakfast

Villa Zürichberg

Every now and then there’s a place that totally exceeds my expectations and Villa Zürichberg is definitely one of them. This tastefully decorated bed & breakfast is located in picturesque Zürichberg. Judy Asuncion Rauber and her staff make you feel at home in what feels like what could be a palace. Wake up every morning to panoramic views of Lake Zürich outside your window and a freshly prepared breakfast in the royalesque dining quarters. Conveniently located, you can easily get to the city by car in less than 15 minutes.

THINGS TO DO: If YOU LOVE ART & TRAIN RIDES

Kunsthaus Zürich

Zürich’s fine art museum, Kunsthaus Zürich, houses exhibitions and paintings from around the world dated as far back as the 13th century to present day. You will find some of the most iconic works by artists such as Alberto Giacometti, Monet, Picasso, Chagall and Rothko here as you stroll up and down this architectural beauty.

Address:
Kunsthaus Zürich
Heimplatz 1
8001 Zurich

Hours:
Fri - Sun / Tues 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.
Wed - Thurs 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Cost:
23 Swiss francs (approximately $23 USD) per person

TIP: Free admission on Wednesdays

TAKE A TRAIN FROM Zürich Hauptbahnhof

Zürich’s main station, Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Zürich HB), is the largest railway in Switzerland. You can, as I did, walk in almost any time of day and take a train somewhere beautiful within Switzerland or a neighboring country such as Germany, Italy, Austria and France. The trains are impeccably clean (need not take first class - second class was great).

Side note: I also happened to have some of the best bratwurst of my life here from one of the local vendors.

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lucerne

A day trip from Zürich or a central starting point to see many of Switzerlands highlights.

A DAY IN LUCERNE

On the shores of Lake Lucerne, amid the snowcapped Swiss Alps in Central Switzerland, is the picturesque city of Lucerne. Its colorful medieval architecture is enchanting and you can’t help but feel like you’re in a chapter of a storybook. I took a 1 hour train ride from Zürich HB to get to car-free Lucerne and spent the day there. I recommend staying overnight if you can.

For more information on Lucern, visit MySwitzerland’s article here.


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ZERMATT

A charming town at the foot of
the Matterhorn.

The small town of Zermatt in Southern Switzerland is almost completely surrounded by the Alpine four-thousanders (mountains of 4,000 meters (13,123 ft) or more above sea level in the Alps in France, Italy and Switzerland). Zermatt, at an elevation of 1600 meters (5,250 ft), lies at the foot of the Matterhorn which straddles Switzerland and Italy. It’s best known for skiing and hiking and though small, Zermatt has plenty of charm. My only regret was not staying longer than two nights.

HOW TO GET TO ZERMATT by car

Lucky for you, you won’t find out the night before driving to Zermatt that it is car-free. But you can still get pretty close by car. Here’s how I did it and it was the most breathtaking drive of my life (especially the way back via a different route than the one I took there). Still, I recommend taking the train. It will cost you about as much as renting a car, but it’s hassle-free.

GETTING TO ZERMATT BY CAR

After picking up my rental car from the Hertz at Zürich airport (ZRH), I started on the 3 1/2 hour scenic journey to Zermatt. Without knowing, I just picked the fastest route there without paying attention to the “this route includes a car transport” message Google Maps displayed in my directions. About 2 hours into the ride, and after paying a 27 Swiss franc (CHF) ($27 USD) toll, I came up to the Lötschberg Tunnel. There, you load your vehicle onto the Lötschberg Car Train and sit back inside your car for the 20 minute through the tunnel which cuts through the Bernese Alps. The ride is totally safe, but if you are even a little claustrophobic like me, I recommend taking the route I took back to Zürich instead (map on the right below).

Lötschberg Tunnel (photo credit: Zermatt.ch)

Lötschberg Tunnel (photo credit: Zermatt.ch)

Lötschberg Car Train (photo credit: Wikipedia)

Lötschberg Car Train (photo credit: Wikipedia)

Route to/from Zermatt via the Lötschberg Tunnel

Route to/from Zermatt via the Lötschberg Tunnel

Route to/from Zermatt NO Lötschberg Tunnel (extremely scenic!)

Route to/from Zermatt NO Lötschberg Tunnel (extremely scenic!)

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Once I reached Täsch, I parked my car at the Matterhorn Terminal and boarded the Zermatt shuttle train (which depart every 20 minutes) which landed me in Zermatt in about 10 minutes. From there a free local shuttle in town can take you to or close to your final destination within minutes.

WHERE TO STAY & EAT: A FAMILY OWNED BOUTIQUE HOTEL & RESTAURANT

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SONNMATTEN BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Accommodations in Zermatt can range from $200 USD to an exorbitant $2,000 USD a night. Therefore, it’s important to book your stay
before you arrive.

I was lucky to find a reasonably-priced, clean and spacious suite with a view at family-owned Sonnmatten Boutique Hotel on Booking.com. The apartment felt like home and had everything necessary for a longer-term stay if needed. The big bonus was the restaurant, which is run by the same owners, and is magnificent. I chose to have dinner there the two nights I was in Zermatt (even ordered the same meal because it was just that good).

The Restaurant

Click here for their lunch/dinner menu (scroll down for English).

WHAT TO DO: A DAY TRIP TO THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN STATION IN EUROPE

MATTERHORN GLACIER PARADISE

And then there I was, almost 4,000 meters (13,000 ft) high on a 360-degree platform with a view of 38 four-thousand-metre peaks and 14 glaciers of the Swiss, Italian and French Alps. Matterhorn Glacier Paradise was like nothing I had ever experienced in person. It was well worth the 100 CHF ($100 USD) for the ride all the way to the top, in one of the most glamorous cable cars, that felt like an IMAX 3D movie but was actually real life. The ticket also included entry into an actual glacier, Glacier Palace. If a trip up to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is all you do, the trip to Zermatt will be well worth it.


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A sticker I found 13,000 ft up


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